This spice, made from the bark of various Asian evergreen trees, is one of the oldest: It was first recorded in China in 2500 bce. It is widely available as sticks (curled pieces of branch bark), chunks (pieces from more intense-tasting bark low on the tree), and ground spice (the kind used in Iranian cookery, Chinese and Vietnamese) cassia cinnamon are familiar varieties, sweet and aromatic. “True” cinnamon, from cinnamon trees in Ceylon, is milder, with more of a citrus scent. Either may be used in Iranian cookery. Just be sure the spice is fresh: Even stored in tightly sealed jars, cinnamon deteriorates after a few months.