Oils and vinegars

These are the most basic components of flavour, and items that it is simply foolish to stint on, as a poor-quality oil will mar the taste of any dish, no matter how good the other ingredients. We generally cook in either vegetable oil or olive oil, depending on the dish, reserving extra-virgin olive oil for dishes to which the oil is added later, such as a dressing, or in which the oil used for cooking will actually form a significant part of the finished sauce.

We use groundnut oil for most stir-frying and for deep-frying, as it has a good neutral flavour and can take the high temperatures involved. We do occasionally also use sesame oil for stir-frying and other forms of Oriental dishes, although toasted sesame oil is more generally added at the last minute as a dressing – but be careful, as its strong flavour can easily drown the other flavours. Some oils are used – again judiciously – almost entirely for their flavour, notably mustard oil, walnut oil and, of course, truffle oil.