By Anne Willan
Published 1989
Many contemporary favorites, such as Tuscan cacciucco, which require a minimum of five types of fish, started out as a catch-all for whatever fish the fisherman didn't sell. The dish often provided his family with the most flavorful, if least select, remnants from the day's catch. The famous New England chowder follows the same principle; the name derives from the French chaudière or stewpot. Chowders are hearty, stew-like soups that can be based on a variety of ingredients and usually include milk. Simpler in spirit and preparation are soups that are called stews, a misnomer in this case. Most famous of these is Maryland oyster stew in which oysters (or steamed mussels) are poached in seasoned milk or cream.
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