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Fish & Shellfish Soups

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By Anne Willan

Published 1989

  • About
Seafood lends itself to visually appealing, hearty soups that can be a main course or a complete meal. A typical fish soup includes a selection of white fish such as cod, hake, haddock, halibut, red snapper, bream, perch, monkfish or gurnard, plus an oily fish such as eel or mackerel, and is often topped with mussels or clams. Within reason, the greater the variety, the better the soup, but the current vogue for adding expensive shellfish to traditional recipes can be overwhelming.

Many contemporary favorites, such as Tuscan cacciucco, which require a minimum of five types of fish, started out as a catch-all for whatever fish the fisherman didn't sell. The dish often provided his family with the most flavorful, if least select, remnants from the day's catch. The famous New England chowder follows the same principle; the name derives from the French chaudière or stewpot. Chowders are hearty, stew-like soups that can be based on a variety of ingredients and usually include milk. Simpler in spirit and preparation are soups that are called stews, a misnomer in this case. Most famous of these is Maryland oyster stew in which oysters (or steamed mussels) are poached in seasoned milk or cream.

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