Unfortunately, supplies of freshwater fish have dropped dramatically owing to overfishing and pollution. Conservation measures are now being taken, but farmed freshwater fish, with its relatively standard, handy size and reliable if unremarkable quality, will continue to occupy the lion's share of the market.
Many and varied as they are, freshwater fish have in common a mild, delicate flavor. The flesh is sometimes coarse, sometimes fine. Simple treatment is the best, top choices being poaching, steaming and sautéing in butter. Freshwater fish are more likely than other fish to be contaminated by pollution; the toxins tend to collect in the skin and the thin layer of fat just below it. Therefore it is a sensible precaution to remove the skin and fat from freshwater fish before cooking them.