Asparagus, Celery, Fennel, Swiss Chard, Cardoon

Vegetable stalks share a juicy crispness when raw and a perfumed aroma when cooked. The category includes asparagus, exotic seakale and common celery. All have been eaten for centuries and have bitter-tasting wild cousins. Some stalks discolor easily and should be stored or cooked in acidulated water.

Asparagus is the herald of spring: the part we eat is the immature sprout that ranges in color from white to green and purple depending on variety and how it is grown. The Germans, Belgians and French admire fat pale yellow or white stalks—colorless because they are picked before they sprout above ground. The British, Italians and Americans generally prefer fresh tasting bright green or purple asparagus, which has acquired its color from sunlight. Finer stems, sometimes called sprue in Britain, are often preferred for their piquant flavor. Green asparagus is cheaper in the United States because it is easier to harvest; all varieties are prepared by boiling or steaming. Since asparagus tips are fragile, the stalks are often tied in a bunch to cook upright, the stems immersed in the boiling water and the tips kept above it; other cooks prefer to steam the whole stalk. Whatever the method, quick cooking is essential so that texture and sweet flavor are retained.