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By Anne Willan

Published 1989

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The king bolete, or cep, is a monarch indeed, third only to the truffle and morel in the gastronomic hierarchy. It is part of a large family of chubby mushrooms with bulbous stems and fleshy caps (the Italian name for cep is porcini, meaning little pigs). Boletes have a spongy mass of tiny tubes under the cap instead of gills. Their flavor is at once perfumed and pungent, vividly evocative of the hardwood and coniferous woods where they grow. Unless picked young, they easily become soggy.

Boletes come in earthy colors—terracotta, orange, olive green and, in king boletes, rusty brown with a white stem. Many types of bolete are edible, some agreeable, some rather tasteless, a few are unpalatably bitter. Their soft texture leads some cooks to prefer dried ones to fresh, especially since fresh boletes also have a tendency to attract worms.

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