Les haricots tarbais and other white beans

Haricots verts give way at the end of the summer to the white beans that mature in a similar-looking pod. They are a staple winter nourishment as well as a flavour-giving ingredient for daubes and other slow-cooked dishes. There are various varieties coming from all over France: the cocos from Paimpol in Brittany, which are sold in huge bags of several kilos for drying and conserving over the winter; others from Soissons in the north-east of France – but none compare with the haricots Tarbais produced in the lee of the Pyrenees close to Lourdes (though their neighbours in Pamiers might not agree). A more generic style is called lingots.