MaraŞ, Chiles, and Peperoncini

The sunny, predominantly dry climate of the Mediterranean produces very tasty hot and sweet peppers. In most recipes I use Maraş pepper, the seeded and dried Turkish pul biber (pepper flakes), similar to Aleppo pepper, from the neighboring eponymous Syrian town—a famous stop along the old Silk Road. Maraş pepper is medium-hot, with wonderful fruity and aromatic undertones; some people find it similar to ancho chili. It is cultivated, dried, and exported from the Kahraman Maraş province, near the Syrian border. Bear in mind that the flavor and heat of Middle Eastern peppers vary from one year to the next. Their production is still artisanal and, according to my Turkish friends, potency depends on the weather conditions. Maraş pepper is widely available in the United States (see Sources).