Piloncillo

This slightly smoky, caramelly unrefined sugar is sold in hard cones in most Mexican markets and some well-stocked grocery stores. Just like brown sugar, there two types, lighter (blanco) and darker (oscuro). Either type can be used in the recipes in this book, though the darkest cones will have the richest flavor. The cone size varies from 1 inch (2.5 cm) tall, weighing about ¾ ounce (21 g) to 3 inches (7 cm) tall, weighing about 9 ounces (255 g).

Granulated piloncillo is available online and has the advantage of being easy to measure and is a great time-saver. Piloncillo can be used in everything from moles and other savory sauces to desserts—or simply to sweeten coffee. To work with piloncillo cones, use a cheese grater to grate the amount you need for a recipe. Or, if you need a relatively large amount, slip the piloncillo into a heavy-duty plastic bag and pound it with a meat mallet.