Hardwood grilling requires a bit more time and expertise than modern-day gas grilling. However, the flavors and textures that result from hardwood grilling are generally regarded as superior, and the method itself can be more rewarding in the most primal sense. When cooking with hardwood, we prefer to work with a combination of natural hardwood lump charcoal and grilling wood, either in the form of split logs or wood chunks. Wood chips can be used to infuse variety-specific smoke flavoring, but they burn fast and offer little to no actual cooking power, which is why we don’t call for them here.