I almost always use baby fennel because it’s sweeter, more tender, and more like the wild fennel that grows in Sardinia. To prepare it, cut off the base and stems, keeping the fronds as they’re great for garnish. Halve the bulb, discard any blemished outer layers, cut a ‘v’ in the base to remove the hard core, wash well as there’s often some grit between the layers, then prepare according to the recipe. If baby fennel isn’t available, use larger fennel, discarding more of the outer layers until you come to the tender centre.