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By James Peterson

Published 1991

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Morels (Morchella esculenta) have a distinctive shape, a kind of sponge-like cone. Their flavor is delicate but, once brought out by a preliminary sautéing, is complex and irresistible.

Dried morels should be quickly rinsed under cold running water to eliminate sand and other particles. After they have been rinsed, put them in a bowl and sprinkle them with Madeira. They usually require about 10 minutes to soften and absorb the Madeira. Save any liquid left in the bottom of the bowl as an additional flavoring for sauces. Be sure they are thoroughly cooked to rid the sauce of any residual alcohol.

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