Mussels should be checked carefully to eliminate dead ones before they are cooked; one bad one can spoil an entire dish. The best way to check them is to scrub them thoroughly with a brush under cold running water and press firmly on the two shells in opposing directions—any dead ones will immediately break apart. Many recipes insist that mussels that have opened slightly cannot be used. This is rarely true, as most mussels will close again if the two shells are squeezed together. If in doubt, give the mussel a sniff—it should smell like a clean beach. If it smells like anything else, throw it out.