Truffles

The white truffle of Alba in Piedmont and the black truffle of Perigord are the most sought-after and valuable species. The truffle season runs from November to February and they are harvested with the help of specially trained pigs and dogs who detect the aroma of the underground fungus. Dogs are preferred as pigs are reluctant to give up their ‘find’. White truffles are creamy beige in colour, have a smooth surface and a pungent aroma and flavour. They are best served raw, thinly sliced and are favoured over the black truffles by connoisseurs. The black truffle has a rough outer skin, varies in colour from deep brown to black and once sliced, reveals a marbled pattern running through it. Black truffles benefit from cooking to release their full flavour. Simmer truffles in a reduction of Madeira, Port and veal stock and allow to cool in the cooking liquid that will become the base for Perigeux sauce. Refrigerate and the cooking liquid will solidify, preserving the truffles and perfuming the stock. The truffles can be spooned out as needed. Fresh truffles stored in raw Arborio rice, polenta or with fresh free-range eggs in sealed containers for 24 hours will impart their aroma and flavour, which then can be turned into dishes like truffle risotto, creamed truffle eggs and polenta and truffle terrine. Ensure that truffles are clean, with no hidden pockets of mud as they are sold by weight. Avoid any with tiny holes through them, as this is a sign of worms. They should feel heavy and firm in relation to their size. To clean truffles, gently brush them with a hard nail-brush to remove any soil. Preserved truffle pieces are available but do not compare with fresh truffle. Truffle-infused oils are available but avoid those that are chemically enhanced. Use truffle oil with slivers of truffle infusing it and use in moderation as the flavour can be intense and overpowering.