This spice, made from the bark of various Asian evergreen trees, is one of the oldest: It was first recorded in China in 2500 bce. It is widely available as sticks (curled pieces of branch bark), chunks (pieces from more intense-tasting bark found low on the tree) and ground spice, which is the kind most frequently used. Chinese and Vietnamese cassia cinnamon are familiar varieties (sweet and aromatic). โTrueโ cinnamon, from cinnamon trees in Ceylon, is milder, with more of a citrus scent. Either may be used for recipes in this book. Just be sure the spice is fresh: Even stored in tightly sealed jars, cinnamon deteriorates after a few months.