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By Christine Manfield

Published 1999

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The caper is the unopened flower-bud of the caper bush, a trailing shrub native to the warm, dry Mediterranean region. The flower-buds are picked by hand and then salted and/or pickled in brine or vinegar and used as a condiment. (I prefer the small salted capers as they are more flavoursome and less acidic than those in brine or vinegar.) While the tiny capers from the south of France are good, those from the Eolian Islands off Sicily are considered the finest in texture and flavour. Capers are used predominantly in western European cooking (particularly that of the Mediterranean) to provide piquancy in sauces and condiments, and to give a lift to bland food. Capers should be rinsed thoroughly in cold water before use to remove excess salt. Available: widely (particularly gourmet food stores).

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