Suzuki, Japanese Sea Bass Perch

This silver-gray fish more closely resembles the Mediterranean fish Italians call branzino than the fish New Yorkers call sea bass. Suzuki looks something like a trout, but its back slopes up in the shoulder area and then down to a face smaller than that of a trout. More than 2 feet long at maturity, suzuki is caught from early summer through August.

A very fresh slice of suzuki has a translucent appearance, firm texture, and subtle sweetness. Because it is extremely lean, the fish is well suited to summer dining. Sushi chefs use suzuki not only for nigiri-zushi but also for a sashimi dish called arai, rinsed in cold water. For this dish, very fresh slices of fish, firmed by immersion in ice-cold water, are presented on crushed ice along with a dipping sauce. In hot, humid weather, nothing is more refreshing than a dish of arai.