Ikura, Salmon Roe

I was surprised to learn that the word ikura is not Japanese. It was borrowed at the beginning of the twentieth century from the Russian ikra, meaning “fish roe.” In Japan, the best sushi salmon roe is said to come from fish that swim offshore from September through October on their journey back to their home rivers for spawning. At this stage, the roe has a thin and tender skin; when pickled in brine or marinade, it has the perfect bite. Some sushi chefs, however, like to cure more mature roe, with slightly thicker and more durable skin.