Uni, Sea Urchin

Eaten in Japan since the eighth century, sea urchin became a sushi ingredient only after World War II. Good uni, mostly from Hokkaido, is expensive in Japan today. I developed my love for sea urchin as a child; its tonguelike shape, creamy texture, and sea-breeze fragrance captivated me. Uni does not travel well, so nothing compares to eating it fresh from local waters, as I did during my college years in Hokkaido at an early-morning fish market. The uni were lavishly heaped on top of lukewarm sushi rice in a bowl. The dish tasted so good.