Vine varieties: Semillon

(rarely written Sémillon in the New World; 77,187 tonnes in 2013, a sharp fall from 103,171 tonnes in 2004) is in one sense Australia’s traditional counterpart to Shiraz. Yet it is a conundrum. On the one hand, it has failed to make any substantial headway in export markets, arguably because it is not an internationally recognized single varietal: consumers buy white bordeaux, not Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc. In the domestic market, mature Hunter Valley Semillon (anywhere between five and 20-plus years old) has an ardent following in Sydney, but not elsewhere. Yet despite this, its production for high-quality dry wine continues to be strong: it is more than twice as important (in volume terms, at least) as Riesling. Historically in the Riverland and Riverina, where it produces large crops and wine superior to Trebbiano or Muscat Gordo Blanco, it was important, but most of the recent fall in plantings has been in these regions. At the other end of the scale, the best Semillons are 100% varietal, including unoaked versions from the Hunter with an alcohol level of 10.5 to 11%, and those fermented in French oak, with or without a percentage of Sauvignon Blanc, from the Adelaide Hills and Margaret River at more conventional alcohol levels. The Semillon from the latter region, in particular, bears little or no resemblance to Hunter Valley Semillon, being much higher in alcohol (13 to 13.5%), richer, and more flavoursome in its youth.