Filleted, poached, dressed in barquettes of cucumbers, stuffed with fish mousseline, coated with white wine sauce mixed with crayfish butter, glazed.

You can’t avoid the suckling pigs at José María: this is Segovia’s temple to the cochinillo’s delights, where some 8,000 suckling pigs are dished up annually. There’s even a bronze effigy of one snugg