These dishes should add variety to American and British menus. In France they are no longer novelties nor creations, nor have they the distinction of being distinctive, which, as defined by a cousin of Gertrude Stein, is something that is done six weeks before all the world is doing it. On the contrary, they are most of them a slow evolution in a new direction, which is the way great art is created—that is, everything about is ready for it, and one person having the vision does it, discarding what he finds unnecessary in the past. Even a way of cooking an egg can be arrived at in this way. Then that way becomes a classical way. It is a pleasure for us, perhaps for the egg.
