Most of the time I do my best. I try to suggest recipes with everyday ingredients whenever possible. I take pride in getting the best out of a shoulder of lamb, a Savoy cabbage or a pineapple. Most of the produce that you see photographed in this book comes from a well-known online supermarket. Bearing in mind that many good ingredients that were readily available in the high street thirty years ago – fresh mackerel, wild rabbit, herrings, a piece of brisket, say – are no longer so readily found, this is not always easy. This recipe, however, is made with ingredients that are unashamedly more arcane.