March

Appears in

Published 2018

About

For some reason these dishes that have washed up on the shores of March all have rather basic ingredients. I admit wild sea bass is a luxury these days – farmed sea bass is ubiquitous despite its extraordinary lack of flavour – but here the wild fish is given the most honest and least fancy of treatments. For the rest, you can buy most of this this stuff just about anywhere.

One of the joys of writing for the Financial Times is the range of ingredients with which I can work. There is an understanding that our readers are a sophisticated bunch and have the access and the means to buy the rarefied and expensive, if they want them. By the same token, I can choose the humblest of ingredients if I so wish. Some of the more plutocratic readers positively pine for simplicity after being forced to dine out in fancy restaurants and at corporate dinners.