Upon returning from a weekend in Paris with my teenage son, I note that, apart from a continued interest in football, demographics, the Paris rail system (Metro and RER) and an appetite for steak and chips, he has added a new enthusiasm: one for profiteroles. He had them at Le Voltaire, a posh – and not inexpensive – bistro on the Quai of the same name after consuming his own and half of my steak. He ate them slowly and fastidiously, adding a little chocolate sauce at a time and carefully analysing their interior.