All About Eggs

Easter, so often construed in food terms to be about lamb, is really about eggs. We make pancakes on Shrove Tuesday to use up any eggs we have left over. Come spring and the Easter festival, the hens start laying and we are allowed to eat eggs again. Whether represented in chocolate or in paint, in egg hunts and in egg fights, Easter has always been a celebration of that potent symbol of rebirth. And yet, although absolutely central to the idea of Easter, there are not so many dishes that feature eggs.