They Were Irresistible

I have made a lot of fish soup in my time but I have never made it the traditional way. A fish soup was the marmite des pêcheurs, a soup that was made by the fishermen, with the fish that they could not sell. Far from being a premium product, the soup mix was the fish that were too small to be of any value. I have always made it with cheap fish, bones and especially the heads of the fish that came my way. You do have to be selective in what you use. Oily fish – salmon, mackerel and sardines – are definitely not wanted. It is also important to remove the gills and eyes and rinse the bones well. The heads and bones are then marinated in white wine, aromatic vegetables and saffron overnight and cooked the next day.