The Real McCoy

Peas can be a problem. They are not exactly cheap, even at the height of the season, and it would be disappointing to pod a lot of very small peas – and then to present them lightly boiled, tossed in a little butter with perhaps a sprig of mint – for such effort to pass without appreciation. There was a time when such a dish would be an incomparable treat. Peas are a great delicacy, but, sadly, frozen peas have debased the currency. Those little peas, les vrais petits pois, have to be exceptional for the diner not to be rather blasé about them: peas are something you give the kids for their supper, since they are quick, easy and often one of the few green things the little blighters will eat.