In the Souk

Up until now, I have not found a chicken salad that I really liked. I daresay I have never quite felt the need for one. These days a chef has to respond to the market and the market, especially at lunchtime, wants a salad and preferably not some incy-wincy little starter but a great pile of assorted greens, grains and proteins that takes care of the job of eating for a while. Some large, composed salads – Niçoise comes zooming into view – fit the bill perfectly, but others seem something of an exercise in monotony.