Pas Comme Ça

Piperade with Ham

Appears in

By Rowley Leigh

Published 2018

  • About
It takes some nerve to be prepared to lose face when cooking, especially on television. With an army of ‘stylists’ – people doing the real cooking off set – plus endless takes and retakes and a certain po-faced attitude from the performers, one might be forgiven for believing that chefs never got it wrong.

We miss Keith Floyd. He may not have been the greatest chef but he had an enthusiasm and mission to explain that is often a little wanting these days. His programmes had spontaneity, and he was not afraid of getting it wrong. When he decided to cook fish in salt, lacking one big fish to pack in the salt, he opted to pack a lot of small fish together and proceeded to pile salt around them. The moment of truth came when he hacked open the hard salt crust and found nothing but bones and dry shards of overcooked fish. ‘There you are, you see,’ he said to camera, ‘it’s a complete disaster’. The lesson was that experimentation must include the risk of failure.