Meades Did the Ordering

A Grand Couscous

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By Rowley Leigh

Published 2018

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We passed Le Souk a couple of times before we saw it. Just one of the many restaurants ranged along the north side of Le Vieux Port in Marseilles, it had tables and chairs spread out on the pavement under an awning. A glimpse inside betrayed a more exotic Maghrebi approach to interior design, but we had no intention of dining inside. Jonathan Meades wanted us to go to a gloomy-looking joint in the old town, but we were able to deter him on the grounds that we needed to eat outside so that Andy could take pictures. In the event we didn’t use the pictures but the excuse served its purpose.