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A Reprehensible Venetian Habit

Squid with Polenta

Appears in
top 1000A Long and Messy Business
A Long and Messy Business

By Rowley Leigh

Published 2018

  • About

Were you to stand on the Rialto Bridge and look back down the Grand Canal in the direction of the Accademia and the lagoon – and supposing you were able to see past the carnival masks, mobile phone shops, leather goods, souvenirs and other tawdry geegaws designed to relieve the unwary tourist of their hard-earned euros – you might espy a little passageway on the right-hand side leading up into the dense and moody Don’t Look Now area of Venice that is San Polo.

The alley is called the Calle della Madonna, and last time I was there a rudimentary sign was attached to the cornerstone pointing to La Trattoria alla Madonna, situated less than a hundred metres away. Madonna, as everybody refers to it, is a kind of Venice institution, having a front room where we tourists are charged one price and a back room where a more realistic tariff is levied on the locals. By Venetian standards, however, Madonna is not expensive and serves up excellent quality fish and seafood trawled out of the market on the other side of the Rialto Bridge.
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