Piquant but Unctuous

For some, the pheasant is the poor relation in the game family. They are the least expensive and most plentiful of game birds. It is also true that they do not have quite the same majesty as a grouse or a woodcock when it comes to taste. However, they are very beautiful to look at, and all they ask is a bit of effort and skill on the part of the cook.

If you have a brace of tender young hens and they have been hung in a cool place for about a week, pheasants can be simply roasted. They will need a little barding with fat bacon and must be just cooked, in order that the legs are no longer pink but the breasts are not dry and overcooked. Served just so, with plenty of bread sauce, a good gravy, some game chips and perhaps a few chipolatas, they are a treat, but skill and good timing are required.