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Published 2003
WHEN KEN ORINGER WALKS TOWARD YOU THROUGH THE DINING ROOM OF CLIO, his restaurant in Boston, he does not fill the room as most top chef-owners do. Perhaps it is the handsome, very youthful face, perhaps the modesty of his body language. But when he stands in front of you, the smile takes over, and you feel genuine enthusiasm, passion, and firmly gentle determination. And when I tasted my first bite of food—black bass and lemon tempura with Korean smoked salt—I knew I was in the hands of a master.
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