Some restaurants serve food. Others serve atmosphere-a taste of a place, of its people, its countryside and its history. Sauro Brunicardi’s Trattoria La Mora, north of Lucca, is one of these. The wine (from his own, enoteca) is excellent, the food delicious and creative, but almost more important is the warmth, & generosity of Signor Brunicardi and his staff. Sauro Brunicardi is one of the small group of Italian restauranteurs who in 1980 formed ‘La Linea Italia in Cucina’ to preserve the traditional regional cooking of Italy, and to serve carefully researched and prepared dishes from their own areas. As a result of this fidelity to tradition, with additional ingenuity because not all traditional food is necessarily good, it is still possible to find some of, ‘La Cucina Povera’-dishes that might have otherwise disappeared, if not from Tuscan homes, at least from Tuscan restaurant menus.