Soups & Sandwiches

Appears in
Brown Sugar Kitchen: New-Style, Down-Home Recipes from Sweet West Oakland

By Tanya Holland

Published 2014

  • About
An outstanding sandwich makes me think of a (don’t laugh) gospel choir. When everyone is singing their part, the magic occurs all around them. An oyster po’boy needs a roll that’s both soft and crusty, but you don’t want the oysters to get lost in the bread, so the roll can’t be too doughy. A dose of spicy coleslaw brings a needed bit of acid to the party, and an even schmear of aïoli brings all the flavors into line while letting the oysters shine. It takes a practiced hand and an experienced palate to make these things happen. But when it works, there’s nothing better than a perfectly composed sandwich that’s just the right amount of filling, bread, and condiments.