Spring

Early spring is a horrible tease. As the first warm rains move in, we want to be eating nothing but fresh food. No frozen vegetables, no stews, no heavy meats (all right, for Easter the Krissoffs have been known to roast a leg of lamb and a ham—on the same day). But of course in most parts of the country very little “springtime” produce is actually ready in spring, and small-town farmers’ markets, where growers are offering another few bunches of chard, some root vegetables from last year, and maybe some nice spring onions, can be depressingly sparse.