A glance across the map of northern France reveals a vast and varied landscape of sweeping farmland, orchards and a long expanse of coastline. For centuries this northern region has produced an abundance of seafood, apples (this is Calvados and cider country), and most significantly, dairy products from the lush pastures that abound here. These days, the dairy industry is dominated by mass production, and the small farms that once made their own cheeses to sell at markets, now supply big cooperatives with milk.