There is a cheese revolution taking place in America: a pastoral movement where a spirit is rippling through an already substantial cheesemaking tradition. I realized that the times were a-changing when I tasted the prototype Vermont Shepherd cheese from the Major’s farm, Putney, Vermont back in 1993. It was a revelation; it was only a matter of time before I would be hearing more about new cheesemakers and the vivid response to the usual bland and ordinary offerings.
Every time an American customer came into my shop and bemoaned the fact that their country’s cheeses could never be compared to European counterparts, I have defended farmstead cheesemaking, and guided them to the best US cheese shops in their part of the country.