The First Course

Throughout China, it is customary to begin all banquets with foods prepared to be served at room temperature. These ping poon, or appetizers, can be as simple as individual plates of steamed black mushrooms, pickled ginger, or honey walnuts; or as elaborate as storks and egrets carved from white turnips; lanterns hollowed out of wintermelons; birds, dragons, and phoenixes in relief, on plates, created from layers of sliced chicken, beef, vegetables, and shrimp.