Stocks, and a small rant

There are no secrets to stock making. It’s a very flexible and forgiving procedure, as long as a few basic rules are followed. The first is that water should be kept to a minimum, so break up bones and carcasses so they occupy the smallest saucepan and cover with the minimum of water. The ingredients must be submerged. (This may be self-evident, but it is surprising how many good cooks leave their bay leaves just floating on the top.) This is partly to save time but chiefly to give the stock enough flavour without it having to be reduced by boiling. The second is to try to include the essential aromatic vegetables, the triumvirate of onion, carrot and celery. The third is to do the same with another trio – bay leaves, parsley stalks and thyme. Omitting one or two of these isn’t the end of the world, but the stock will be a bit unbalanced. A clove of garlic, crushed, and a few black peppercorns would also be helpful.