January and February

The beginning of the year seems to call for a lighter approach to cooking. A cleansing of the system is required after the full-on festive period. But cold, crisp days still demand an element of traditional comfort food, like Welsh cawls and French brandades, sticky braises and nursery puddings, but maybe with less of the rich excess of the past month or two.

Lighter dishes tend to come naturally at this time of year, as there’s less choice of locally sourced food and wild ingredients, but don’t worry, there’s still lots to get excited about. There’s an abundance of healthy cold-water fish and the big exception to the ‘eating in season’ rule – forced rhubarb, so succulent and versatile to use.