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Published 1990
How we love our fishcakes! They are the humble and unchanging companions from the tables of our childhood, still constant when we desire them in our adult life. No poems of celebration are dedicated to them; no paeans of praise. Indeed, it is rather infra dig. to say that one even eats them let alone enjoys them. Of course, we are not discussing the solid roundels of potato and fish — curling stones composed largely of the former, together with a few anonymous, white whiskers of the latter. They deserve their blankets of tomato ketchup as a shroud and sousings of Worcestershire sauce as heavy rains on their grave. We’re talking about the honest, homemade fishcake; cooked fish that we know was bought just before cooking. Its tender flakes have been lovingly combined with eggs and, maybe, garden herbs or freshly crushed spices, then breadcrumbed or dusted with flour before being fried to crisp perfection.
