Matsumae was the name given in olden times either to the whole of Japan’s northern island Hokkaido, or to one specific part of it. As this area is renowned for its production of superlative quality kombu, the name was thus given to those dishes containing the ingredient. ‘Matsumae yaki’ describes a dish where seasonal ingredients, such as herring roe and meat, are arranged on top of a sheet of kombu and grilled. When cooked in a charcoal fire, the temperature of the matsumae yaki rises slowly, producing an enjoyable change in the flavour of its components. Sea urchin is delicious through the summer and into autumn. Its unique natural, taste is not lost through the charcoal grilling, and indeed it takes on a wonderful texture and sweet flavour. This dish can be enjoyed simply sprinkled with salt for a splendid seaside smell, or squeezed with sudachi (a Japanese green citrus fruit) juice for a refreshing touch.
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