Palate cleanser as sunomono

November is a fantastic month for root vegetables. The much-loved daikon radish begins to take on a sweetness at this time, and in the Kyoto region, there is the scarlet kintoki carrot, which has a stronger flavour than Western carrots. At Kikunoi, they make a vinegared palate cleanser with these vegetables, using the sweet, umami-rich tosazu vinegar, which is the result of combining rice vinegar with ichiban dashi. Before adding this vinegar, it is blended with sesame seed paste for a well-rounded taste that fills the mouth. The rich sweetness of the Japanese persimmon compliments the refreshing acidity of the vinegar and crisp root vegetables. This is served together with mackerel, a winter fish adored by Kyotoites. At Kikunoi, they use mackerel line-caught in the inland sea. Weighing about two pounds each with a thick, dense flavour, the fish are fresh enough to eat raw, but, in line with Kyoto tradition, the mackerel is served pickled in vinegar to clarify the flavour and firm up the flesh. This kind of pickled mackerel is known as shimesaba, and its delightful flavour can be enjoyed by fish-lovers the world over.