They are What They Eat

When I go to a restaurant with my husband, and I point out there is wild mushroom risotto on the menu, he always gives me his “Don’t do it” look. That’s because he knows one of the mushroom community’s favorite games is Risotto Gotcha: I like to ask the waiter which wild mushrooms are in the risotto. Usually, she will name domesticated ones that seem wildish, like cremini–the same species as the white button–or hen of the woods. Hens are a great tell, because they are cultivated year-round but available wild only in the late summer and fall, so if your wild mushroom risotto contains hen of the woods in June, they are most likely cultivated. It’s empowering to know something about the foods we eat, even if all the knowledge does is help you determine whether to order the risotto.