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The Warung
Appears in
By Eleanor Ford
Published 2019
Clustered along every roadside in Indonesia are small family-owned food stalls and shacks, sometimes no more than a lone table under a tarpaulin. The humble warung draws diners from all walks of life; bus drivers huddle next to businesswomen on plastic chairs or floor seating. Everyone is drawn by the one dish they make better than anyone else.
It might be sate, the smoky grill set at the front to lure passing trade. Or perhaps rice with an assortment of spicy pre-cooked accompaniments each dotted around the plate in tiny portions. Nasi goreng, the umami-packed fried rice, is ubiquitous and warungs serving up soto are unrivalled for their intense broths shimmering with bone marrow fat.
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