Until I moved for good to the United States, I would say that my knowledge of the regional Mexican cuisines was excellent in some regards and very spotty in others. I had lived for years in one of the important culinary capitals of the land; I had done some traveling after that; I had learned whatever I could from friends and relatives in many parts of Mexico. I knew what one can from books. But I had never set out on a systematic voyage or voyages of exploration to see the major provincial cooking styles at first hand.