Shewa

Tum’tumo is best made with berbere, an intense terracotta-coloured spice blend that Ethiopian and Eritrean recipes use for big flavour. Shewa has great bags of it in the kitchen and says that if you can’t find it in big supermarkets or ethnic stores, it can happily be replaced by cayenne pepper. Shewa also uses a spice blend she makes by throwing an equal measure of nigella seeds, cardamom, cloves and ajwain seeds into a coffee grinder for a quick blast.

Shewa served the tum’tumo with kale steamed with garlic and bay leaves, and another dish of mustard leaves and spinach boiled with bright orange squash. These sat atop the injera, the sour, pancake-like flatbread Eritreans use as base plate and cutlery in one.