Flora met us off the ferry at Hvar in a generously rimmed striped straw hat and modish circular sunglasses. We walked around the bay to the home she inhabits half the year, next door to the infamous Hula Hula bar. We sashayed past with pride, in the knowledge that we were defying tourist traps and getting the fully local experience.
Our octopus came from a local chef called Car whom Flora has known since childhood. Because she was cooking for Grand Dishes he allowed her to buy one of his prized octopuses. Generally they’re very hard to come by at this time of the season (September).